Palio de Siena 2019: how to see the famous horse race?

Guide to the Palio de Siena 2019, the most famous event in Tuscany: how to attend the race that takes place on July 2 and August 16, 2019?

It may even be the most famous annual sports event in Italy . But Palio de Siena represents much more than a traditional race of horses (without saddle): it is a grandiose show, a civic act and Sienese pride that is at stake. The race lasts, on average, only 75 seconds.

Organised in honour of the Virgin Mary, the race takes place twice a year, the 2 July and 16 August . Seventeen of the seventeen contrade , or medieval quarters of the city, are represented by a horse and his fantino (jockey) for each race. The 7 contrade not taking part in the last race of July or August of the previous year automatically participate and three more are drawn to lot (to make 10).

Here are the 17 contrade of Siena:

• Aquila (the Eagle)

• Bruco (the Chenille as a silkworm)

• Chiocciola (Escargot)

• Civetta (Chouette)

• Drago (the Dragon)

• Giraffa (la Girafe)

• Isitor (Porc-epic)

• Leocorno (the Unicorn)

• Lupa (la Louve)

• Nicchio (the shell)

• Oca (Oie)

• Onda (Onde)

• Pantera (the Panther)

• Selva, Forest

• Tartuca (the Tortue)

• Torre (the Tower)

• Valdimontone (the Aries)

---

La contrada Valdimontone – Flickr – Dimitry B

The race is not a tourist invention, like some of the fairs, joutes and "medieval" reconstructions elsewhere in Italy: the Palio is organized almost uninterruptedly on the main square of Siena , Piazza del Campo since at least 1644. ♪ 40,000 Sienese who rush around Campo the race days (2/3 of the city's population) do not pay attention to the 20,000 Italian and foreign tourists who have also come to attend. Each Sienese belonging to a contrada participates in the life of the race and in the organization of the race throughout the year. Passion inspires these people and you will realize if you have the chance to attend the race.

All this means two things for all those who wish to attend Il Palio : the first is that you will have a guaranteed electric atmosphere, as almost zero elsewhere in Italy. The second is that you have to plan your coming well in advance, because no one will offer you a ticket in the gallery.

The race (or rather the races)

The race takes place on 2 July ( Palio di Provenzano ) and 16 August ( Palio dell’Assunta ).

Flickr – Pedro Prats

The Palio is a rather complex event that has created new rules over the centuries, as well as traditions and customs , most of which are known only to members of each contrada. Here are some main rules and traditions of the Palio that should be useful to you to better understand the race:

Already, 4 days before the race, the Piazza del Campo is packed with people who prepare the track. The ring around the square is covered with arena sand called the tuf.

During the 4 days preceding the Palio, you can attend the tratta (the selection of horses for the race, around noon June 29 and August 13), and the six test races horses start the evening after the tratta until the morning of the Palio. To attend these races, make sure that you are in the closed area in the centre of the square at 8:40 am for morning tests and 7:15 pm for evening testing.

Following a Tratta – Flickr – Daniela Pasquetti

The other great tradition of Palio are the outdoor party meal that each contrada organizes the evening before the race (July 1 and August 15) on trestle tables on the street or the main square of the neighborhood. To attend this meal, present one or two days before the race at the QG of the contrada that you decided to support and ask them (please find the addresses on the site) ilpalio.org ). Count about 50€ per head.

The race takes place at 7:30 in July and 19h in August . The great despair of photographers is at this moment when the light of the day fades away. The Palio is preceded by a two-hour parade (called the historical procession ) in historical costume that evokes the days of glory of the Sienese Republic in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, when the city was the center of the Italian banking system and had the same population as Paris (at the same time).

Here is the video of the Palio dell’Assunta 2013:

How to attend the Palio de Siena?

The Palio is undoubtedly a unique opportunity to live the enthusiasm and passion of the city of Siena. If you have the opportunity to attend, Don't let this chance go to live such a special celebration!

There are three ways to see the race :

- The simplest , and the only possible possibility if you have not prepared your arrival in advance, is to watch the race from the area in the center of Piazza del Campo, sometimes called by the inhabitants “ he palco dei cani » or the "dog rostrum". It’s free here . However, if you want to have the best place to see the race, you will need to arrive early in the morning, the sooner the better , and then you will have to prepare for a long waiting. In any case, you must be inside the gates 5 hours before the race (15:30 for the July Palio, and 15:00 for the August one), because it is at that time that they begin to clear the track.

Be aware that there is no toilet in this central section, but there are beverage vendors and first aid stations. Bring a lot of water, a cap/chapeau and sunscreen. Both races take place in the middle of the summer. Finally, note that the central “stand” is really not not for children , both the waiting is long and the frequent musculades.

- The second possibility is to reserve a place on one of the stands ( standing) or palchi (on a seat) around the square. The closest to the mossa (the start and finish line) are the most expensive. Honestly, nothing at the Palio is simple, so it is very likely that you would not be able to introduce yourself to the tourist office and buy a ticket. Bars, restaurants or shops have and manage palchi , try to ask them if you are in Siena long before the event, or better yet, ask this year for next year . The prices are theoretically fixed with the municipality, ranging from about 160€ to 400€ per seat.

- I mean, there are them. windows , or better yet balconies , houses and palazzi overlooking the square. The happy owners (often aristocratic) of these homes can practice exorbitant prices, from 350€ to very expensive, to allow you an exceptional view, certainly. To get in touch with such people, you must first contact the organization via the Palio official website (only in Italian).

La Piazza del Campo – Flickr – Chris Ford

Regardless of where you attend the event, make sure you have chosen a contrada to support, your experience will be more beautiful and exciting. Buy the scarf in the colors of the contrada (facially found in the merchants of souvenirs) and go see the blessing of the horse and jockey in the official church of the contrada chosen in the afternoon of the Palio (if the horse leaves a smoking visiting card on the floor of the church, it is considered a good presage...) And if your contrada wins, you can try to join the victory dinner the same evening. Your « contradaioli adoptive » will certainly be too happy and too drunk to refuse your coming.

Come and stay in Siena for the Palio

Needless to tell you that all hotels in the historic centre of Siena and even around will be reserved months before the event . It is still possible to find rooms still available in Siena or its region, but wait at prices around 2 times higher than the low season. Instead, you might consider taking a room at home or renting an apartment or a holiday home on sites like Airbnb For example. Finally, for the years to come (2019, 2020) think to book well in advance.

If you want to fly to Siena, you have to fly to Siena. Florence or Pisa then a train or bus to Siena. Low-cost companies as classics serve these destinations regularly from France. To find a cheap flight, you can search our partner's website Skyscanner .

Did you take part in the Palio in Siena? Tell us your experience by commenting!

Also read: Unmissable visits to Tuscany