My Containment in Colombia: An Unpredictable Journey

Travel to South America and get stuck in Colombia because of a global pandemic. No, this is not a film scenario, but that of my last trip.

October 2019, on the start to realize one of my dreams: go to discover the wonders of South America, alone with my backpack. A maturely thoughtful decision, but not organized.

A simple way to Patagonia, a first drop point. That's all. No Spanish courses, no route traced. The goal is really to let yourself be carried. No date booked to change countries. From the last minute, to “live at the present moment”, something we often forget.

Every way he travels. I chose mine: take time, stay open to opportunities that cross my path. And then in any case, things never happen as we imagine them, don’t they?

Indeed, if I had been told that I would finish this journey in a global crisis situation, confined to a small village in Colombia, I would have laughed at it. It is this experience that I have lived and I want to share with you today.

Some moments of doubt, fear, but also real happiness. Meetings with other confined foreigners, but also with the premises. I'm sharing everything about these three months of containment. Salento , small colorful village of Quindio.

The beginning of my Colombian adventure

Why Colombia, and how did I eventually stay confined to this small village in the Quindio area? In this first part, I explain everything about the beginning of this unexpected experience.

Colombia has always been a country that has attracted my attention, I couldn't exactly tell you why. But what is certain is that its diversity and warm atmosphere are not foreign.

Having landed in Argentinian Patagonia, the logic of my journey was to go back the continent quietly, with a small idea behind the head to finish in Central America. But as I said earlier, things never happen as expected.

Indeed, after a few months spent mainly in Argentina I decided to fly to Colombia. In reality, my basic idea was to continue the journey to Peru except that at that time the rainy season began. Finally, I was going to start with the end and then come down later to Ecuador and Peru, the time that the wet season passes its way.

So here I am at the airport Bogota , early February 2020, after two planes and one day stopover in Panama. While the day barely rises on the huge capital, a mixture of apprehension and excitement frogs in me.

During the flight, I met a Colombian, who was to be recovered by his brother at the airport. Finally, they took me with them and drove me to my hostel. This one could not yet welcome anyone in the morning, they brought me home, offered to eat and a bed to rest.

I could not have dreamed of a better welcome when I arrived in Colombia. Proof of the heat that characterizes this country.

To come back to the main topic of containment, I had the chance to discover Colombia for 1 month, before all this began. My journey from Bogota was followed by Salento, the village itself or I was going to pass the containment. Except that at that time, I was very far from imagining the suite.

As we travel, we make an incalculable number of meetings, but some mark us more than others. It was for me in Salento. I would have gotten a little bit more out of it, but the rest of Colombia was having a lot of desire.

The adventure therefore continues to Medellín to the Caribbean coast. Between small villages lost in nature, the Tayrona National Park a passage through the natives in the heart of Sierra Nevada and the discovery of Guajira desert , Colombia made me see all the colors.

My awareness of the situation

In a way, my discovery of Colombia ended up Cartagena des Indes , emblematic city of the Caribbean coast North of the country. I had just spent a week on the island of San Andres, Colombian island with incredible blue shades, located near the Nicaraguan coasts.

And it was when I landed at the Cartagena airport that I began to understand that the health crisis, which in my eyes was only a small flu on the other side of the world, was growing more than expected.

Indeed, a significant number of people wore a mask at the airport, it was the first time I saw that. Unbridled, I came out of my idyllic week on the island, without understanding what was going on. An oppressive atmosphere began to be felt, not to say apocalyptic.

When I arrived at the hospital I had reserved, the situation restrictions were becoming stronger. I have the time to visit the city of Cartagena, a vestige of the colonial era.

From there, I made the decision to quickly return to the haven of peace that I discovered in Salento. Quitting to be blocked, as well as being there, in the nature and tranquility of this small village of la Zona Cafetera (Cafe region).

In fact, getting stuck in a big city didn’t inspire me, especially since unlike Salento, I had not had time to meet in Cartagena.

Perpetia to join Salento

As soon as the decision to return to Salento was made, it was necessary to act quickly. The village was located more than 800 km south of Cartagena, the fastest and most logical solution was the aircraft. This one took me to Pereira, which is about 1 hour’s drive from Salento.

Resolved to have spent the most important stage, I was not at the end of my surprises. In fact, the restrictions were becoming stronger, the entry into the village of Salento was no longer allowed from 8pm. Unfortunately, I arrived at Pereira airport too late.

Having no choice anymore, I had to book in the aftermath a private room in a lambda hotel. Indeed, the youth hostels, where I was accustomed to staying in normal times, no longer seemed really appropriate to the situation. On the other hand, more and more hostels began to deny foreigners.

That evening, alone in this hotel room, I really become aware of the situation. The horrific idea of staying stuck in this city hotel, alone, haunted my mind. And to crown everything, I didn’t feel very well, not to say that I succumbed to the paracetamol. Hello, psycho!

Last step to reach Salento, a bus ride of about 1 hour from the start Transport terminal Pereira. I arrive at the terminal with the ball in the belly, lest they refuse me the journey. Because yes, things became increasingly complicated.

To accommodate me, I tried to book in two different places, with each time a negative return. “ In view of the situation, we are no longer able to accept tourists. ” Fortunately, during my first visit to Salento, I had kept the contact of the owners of the place where I had stayed. A Franco-Money couple who immediately agreed to welcome me back to their hostel.

As I imagined, taking the bus to Salento was not easy. Fortunately, I was starting to take care of myself in Spanish to negotiate the journey. It was necessary to argue well with the fact that I had a place to stay and that I knew of the world there. I even went to dissociate myself from my tourist label. Finally, we were on the bus, of which I, the only foreigner.

The change of atmosphere and the beginning of containment

Just-in-time arrival in the village

Assisi dans le bus, I admire with emotion the green landscapes of this region, which are now familiar to me. I was happy and grateful to have returned so far, and to find out what I had left during my first visit a month earlier.

You will have understood, I arrived just in time in Salento. We are March 18, 2020. By miracle, I don't control myself at the village's little bus station.

Finally, I arrive at the Hostel Estrellas Sin Fronteras, where I can finally blow. What a relief to meet again here, we would almost feel at home. An environment that was familiar to me, where I was not afraid to stay stuck.

When I told you that I arrived just in time, it must also be emphasized that the village closed its doors the day after my arrival. No one goes out, no one goes home. Scary and perfect timing at a time.

The time of confinement sounded

Well pleased to be back in Salento, this second stay was quite different from the previous month. Indeed, a few days after my arrival, the time of containment sounded.

At the hospital, I meet three French and one Italian, understanding that we will probably spend a little bit of time together. It is still difficult to realize the extent of the situation at this particular time.

Stay stuck a few weeks and then continue the trip? Seeing obliged to return France ? Under what conditions? So many questions we were unable to answer. There was at least one comforting thing: we were not alone. The presence of the Franco-Money couple who held the hostel also had a reassuring side.

Nevertheless, the atmosphere that reigned remained heavy. With the new restrictions, it was only allowed to go out for the basic necessities, without forgetting the mask and gloves. We were strangers, who had somehow brought back the European virus. A nice label of contaminated.

One day, the girls went out together, one for shopping, the other to go to the bank. A village remains a village, everything knows very quickly. Once the girls returned, the village police did not take long to land in the hospital. Their purpose was to take our passport in photo to identify all the foreigners in the village.

Personally, the first days were not the easiest. Since the night in Pereira, I still didn’t feel “normal”. I was taking this virus a few weeks earlier, the return of karma quickly arrived. Especially since at that time, my health insurance had just expired. I could no longer distinguish if my head was heavy to think too much, or if I felt really sick. To this was added fear for my loved ones, more than 10,000 km away. And if something happened and I was not able to reach them... Guilt invaded me.

After this early containment, the atmosphere gradually relaxed. On my side, with some rest, I felt good again. With the girls in the hostel, a little routine began to settle. Organization of races and meals, card games, travel stories, daily calls with our loved ones, sports sessions... Each of these activities was rhyming our daily life.

Two weeks later, I decided to change the place of containment. From there will start the second part of my experience confined to Salento. New place, new environment and new encounters.

The evolution of my containment: my village bubble

This quarantine change will mark a second turning point in my containment experience in Colombia. A new environment filled with beautiful encounters, with locals as well as with other confines.

The month of April begins in an apartment that will become my new little containment house. Unlike the hostel that was below the village, this new place is located at the other end, in the highest part. A few steps from here are the stairs leading to the Salento Mirador.

It’s been several months since the pace was rather intense, sleeping inns, sharing everything with other travellers. It is true that having finally a small place to me was not a refusal. The happiness of getting a little down, being able to unpack the backpack completely.

Well installed, a new life of containment began. Thanks to the meetings I made during my first visit to Salento. It was thanks to them that I was able to find this accommodation for a lower price despite the situation.

In the absence of an exterior, the apartment was made up of a balcony, which overlooks the small alley of colorful houses that make all the charm of Salento. Perched at 2,000 meters above sea level, the village is surrounded by a green nature, which I could admire directly from the window.

I felt so much gratitude for having had the chance to visit the surroundings before the containment, including the Cocora valley . This famous valley is somehow why Salento is so frequented by tourists. Because it is home to these impressive Palma de Cera , the highest palm trees in the world, which can reach up to 70 meters high!

In addition to this is the visit of fincas coffee , to discover the manufacturing stages of the famous Colombian coffee, not to mention its tasting.

Let's get back to the containment. That says new environment, says new neighbours. And village life is different from that in town. Here everyone knows each other and the proximity is real. Open shutters, there are no windows, you can observe everything.

I wonder what the locals are going to think. Why is this stranger coming here now? Will they accept me?

My meeting with the locals

Little by little, I get to know the neighborhood. By the side, live a family del campo . Farmers who raise calves, just below my window. Every day, I watch them take care of them and give them the bottle. I want to go down with them and help them. I'm gonna finish asking.

As a result, they even offered me to come from time to time with them in their fields. These lands which belong to them are home to others of their animals. This is how I sometimes escaped from the apartment to taste the fresh air of nature.

Small precision but not least: about a month after the beginning of the containment, it is official, the village does not host any viruses! That's what everyone can do. Despite the still strong restrictions, we can go shopping much more serenely. On the other hand, mistrust of others is also lacking.

In addition to my neighbors on the side, I was able to meet those in front. A Colombian family that bathes in art, with a hostel all in their image. Real heartburn for these people, who hold an incredible and contagious positive energy.

Exchanges through the balconies in the morning drinking coffee, my favorite routine. Little attention that I will not forget, as that day my neighbor came to bring me some of his arroz con leche (riz to milk), a dessert that is very much there.

Despite the joy of living Colombians, the situation is still difficult and burdensome for them. Indeed, Salento is a village that lives purely from tourism. Restaurants, hotels, guides... without foreigners, there is no activity. That’s how my neighbours, like many others, have unfortunately had to return their hostel to the owner, and return to live in their home out of the village.

However, I was impressed by their creativity and reactivity when they presented me their new project: “ Tupinamba “. A condensed with local flavours, sold in glass jars. Exotic recipes that make up jams, pestos and many other delights. I am happy to follow their project that is still evolving today thanks to the networks. A good example of a rebound to this crisis situation.

A new pillar of my containment

Calle Real is the main street that crosses the village, normally crowded around the world. In this special situation, I was going to go shopping in an almost deserted Salento, a first history! Despite the difficulties of the situation, this vacuum made the atmosphere pleasantly peaceful.

One day I was shopping at Supercocora, the only supermarket in the village, I met a new Frenchman. He taught me that they were about ten foreigners confined together in the world Hostel SOA . And it turns out that the same hostel is just a step away from where I was staying!

You will understand, this place has somehow become my second home. Since Salento was not affected by the virus, my visits did not represent any health hazard, despite the fact that they were not very legal.

France, Russia , Croatia , Switzerland Colombia and Venezuela Our meals, evenings and moments were a beautiful cultural blend. We were all together in this strange situation, but so rich humanly speaking.

In my little village bubble, I was happy and surrounded by beautiful people, including the one I met during my first visit to Salento.

Descapades in the surrounding nature

Two months after the containment began, it is true that the need to get out was felt. But unlike France, the rules were stricter. We had only 2 days of exit allowed in the week. These days were defined according to the last number on the passport. And this day was just racing.

Despite this, a few people from the hostel often went to the mountain. Finally, going to relax in nature does not hurt anyone. So I ended up leaving me too and these few escapades made the beauty of the end of my experience in Colombia. I then share the two most beautiful of them.

The Carbonera: a huge green paradise

Most foreigners passing through Salento on their trip to Colombia come to visit the Cocora Valley and its famous palm trees. But in reality, there is an incredible place, even bigger, that hosts entire palm forests: The Carbonera.

Perched at 3,000 meters above sea level, this unknown paradise of most tourists is clearly out of the beaten paths. You're probably gonna ask yourself why this place has not been known. The reason is mostly logistics. Indeed, the valley of Cocora being closer to the village, it quickly created its fame.

The Carbonera, for its part, requires about 1h30 rides from Salento. For those who like to discover authentic and less frequented places, the road is clearly worth it.

During my first visit to Salento, I did not even know the existence of such a place. It was during the containment that I heard about it. So I decided to explore the Carbonera before the time of my return to France.

The organization was rather simple. With other people from the host, we were a small group of four. We managed to find in the village one of these famous Jeeps, which usually bring tourists to the Cocora valley. After explaining our idea, the owner was leaving to book a day and take us there.

On the day of the escapade, the excitement was at its peak. For weeks, the only outings were racing. And then we were going to explore an incredible place, in a rather privileged situation.

Standing at the back of the Jeep, the landscapes crossed the way were already a show to them alone. Above the village, you climb even higher in altitude, to change the valley and access the famous Carbonera.

What was our wonder when we came there... from palm forests to no longer finish, all higher than each other. A place out of time. Meeting point with the driver, we had the rest of the day to explore the surrounding area. And the most wonderful in all this is that we were completely alone. Only in the middle of this immensity.

The discovery of the Cerro Machín volcano

This second escapade is probably the wildest. What an idea to go on a motorcycle to find a volcano, whose name we knew was only, in the middle of a containment period! It remains one of my best memories.

The Cerro Machín is a volcano located in Tolima, a neighbouring department of Quindío. Normally, shipments from Salento can be organized to the volcano. However, it is located at a significant distance from the village, making the trip less accessible than the other must-sees to do around Salento.

From one day to another, we left on a motorcycle to find this volcano. Without a map or Google Maps, we were only informed about the direction to take. And it turned out that the path that leads to the volcano passes through the Carbonera! This fairytale place we thought we had explored before, is actually so much bigger.

When I said that this idea of going to discover the Cerro Machín was rather crazy, it was that we had 3 hours to get there. And this without counting the state of the path that at times was nothing but mud, not very reassuring in the back of the gear that lost in stability. To find the way, we let ourselves be guided by the families of the few farms crossed on the road.

Finally arrived at the foot of the volcano, which was more like a mountain, we find ourselves in front of a farm, without knowing too much where to go. As a result, the owners inform us that it is no longer allowed to climb to the volcano because of the situation. After all this road, it was impossible for us to leave this way. So we ended up successfully negotiating the passage.

In the mist that had settled, we began the rise of the volcano. The crossing of the forest, with its huge leaves and strange plants, seemed to be a trip in the middle of the jungle. Finally, an odor of suffering announced our arrival at the top.

The particularity of the Cerro Machín is that it does not have a crater. In exchange, he breathes by spitting his smoke through his cavities. A magical natural spectacle to observe once at the top. Thanks to the activity of the volcano, the stones on the ground are pleasantly warm, despite the humidity and the cold.

In Colombia, the night is already falling around 5:00. Thus, the way back to Salento was not announcing the easiest. With altitude, the cold arrives quickly and the mist present at times does not facilitate the journey. If we arrived exhausted after this 6h motorcycle day, the experience and memories created are anchored in our memories.

A complicated return to France?

These last beautiful escapades around Salento marked the end of my experience in Colombia. Indeed, repatriation planes managed by the French Embassy were set up during the period to allow the French to return home.

Thus, all Frenchmen blocked in Colombia were given a place in a list according to their situation. For example, people with imperatives in France or those more vulnerable are prioritized. So if a Frenchman is among the top 100 in the list, he is sure to have his seat in the next repatriation plane.

Little by little, I saw the departure of almost all the French and foreigners I had known in Salento. As for me, I must admit to being a little sneezed out. Yet I could have had my place in the very first plane. But what I felt about it in my little village bubble. So well that I was denied three planes in a row, before finally deciding to leave with that of June 26.

When traveling, it always happens to stay one or two more days in a place that we like a lot. We explore the surroundings, we meet beautiful people, and then everyone takes back their way.

But this kind of departure, after having lived so many things and tied such precious ties, is something different. It is leaving a place and leaving a part of us. And in exchange, return with a soul full of unique memories. Isn’t it the most beautiful of riches?