Road Trip on the Auvergnats Cheese Route · Wanderlix

Because a trip to Auvergne is always worth a visit, we offer you a different approach today, through the discovery of its cheese heritage.

In an incredible setting where time sometimes seems to have stopped to allow us time to contemplate, the various Auvergnat heritages make it this region so special. Sometimes neglected, in favour of the coastal or mountainous regions, it nevertheless reserves many surprises to those who venture there. Regardless of your motivation, the Auvergne stretches your arms, so don’t hesitate and discover it with our “Cheese route”.

Rain, cows and mountains

In Auvergne, nature is well made and cheese too. Thanks to a rather rainy climate and a lot of green pastures, the Auvergne is a paradise for our friends dairy cows. And it's been a long time. Indeed, traces of cheese production dating more than two thousand years have been found in the region.

In the Allier , Cantal , the Puy-de-Dôme or Haute-Loire , vast fertile expanses welcome thousands of beasts, thus producing a particular milk, which Man has learned to work over the centuries to give us today the opportunity to taste several dozen different auvergnat cheeses. Prepare your palace!

Step 1: The Allier as a starting point

Let's start our journey through the city of Moulins. This pretty little town was once the capital of Bourbonnais, a territorial area spreading over several departments including the Allier, the Puy-de-Dôme and the Dear . The Bourbons formed the Maison de Bourbon, which will create some kings of France, like Charles X. She kept many witnesses of this prestigious past. This is why we offer you to stop at Moulins. You will enjoy the sweetness of life and the many historic buildings.

Let's continue with the Tronçais Forest. This will be the ideal step between Moulins and Montluçon. You will see how Auvergne justifies the production of good cheeses: nature is omnipresent. Forests, valleys and pastures alternate and form a particularly beautiful landscape. Numerous colours and shades of green blend and agree to compose a natural picture of the most ravishing.

In the heart of the forest are several lakes, on which a walk is always welcome. You can just as well cross some typical animals. Deer and deer, nozzles and eagles, don’t forget to look around and above you!

On the edge of the Tronçais Forest, discover Urçay and his educational farm: the Biquettes du Pays de Tronçais . Between February and November at 14:30, it is possible to visit this farm and especially its cheese shop.

In addition to the fun visit of 2 hours, you will have the opportunity to milk and take care of goats, see all the stages of cheese making and of course, taste it! For amateurs, at the end of the day, the shop opens and you can buy the cheese produced on site.

To finish this first stage of our journey quietly, continue slightly southward, towards Chamberat. In addition to being a lovely and small town, Chamberat is also the name of a very local cheese. With raw milk, it can be farmed or pasteurized according to the productions. This cheese has the reputation of being one of the oldest in the department of Allier, because it already existed at the time of Louis XV.

A fair takes place every year in August in Chamberat. It is the perfect time to discover both this delicious cheese and other features of the region, including melons. What's better than tasting chamberat... in Chamberat?

On the first night, we advise you to continue your road to Montluçon, a city located less than 20 kilometers away.

Step 2: History, “allier” of the tasting

Welcome to Montluçon, the largest city in the Allier department. Very modern with a historical past, it stands out by its tranquility. A big city with a human size. If you are interested, we invite you to discover the Château des Ducs de Bourbon, located in the center of the city. This site first saw a fortress build up in 1070, before it erected a castrum and finally, in 1370, the castle. Today, it blends completely with the rest of the city, despite a remarkable architectural shock. However, there is no less a significant point of view on Montluçon.

As long as you are there, mark a stop at the Countoir aux Fromages, a restaurant on Place Bretonnie. This establishment honours the region’s cheeses and proposes to taste them around a charcuterie board. The advantage is that you choose the cheeses you want to taste yourself. And for that, the restaurant has planned a traditional cheese shop.

Then find dairy foods like Cérilly , originally produced in the village of the same name not far from Montluçon and which has allure of motte of fresh butter. Or else, hang on to it. Figalin , a little goat cheese with fig jam. Once this is done, rest your stomach, because the journey is only starting.

Then, direction Charroux, a fortified village ranked among the most beautiful villages in France. Its history is very old, its beginnings would go back to the 12th century. It’s a lovely patelin where magnificent buildings always seem to have their most sacred character. But this past has not left behind only an architectural heritage.

Indeed, the mustard of Charroux is a specialty that can no longer be local, whose recipe dates back to the Revolution! Born of a perfect marriage between the vineyards of Saint-Pourçain around, with a Tresallier vine, and mustard seed, this recipe was lost before reappearing in the 1970s. Since then, production has stopped! Spit for her!

To finish this day rich in tastings and visits, let's continue to the city of Vichy. Very well known for the thermal resorts, its powerful table water and its role in history, we ignore its cheese: Countess of Vichy .

It would be a shame to plan a culinary stay without stopping there! It is a raw milk cheese that, during its refinement, is surrounded by spicy bark. A peculiarity that gives it a surprising taste, combining these wooded flavors with the softness of its creamy paste. Treat this tasting of a small Vichy watermelon and if you have any time left, we recommend visiting the baths and enjoying the many parks in the city.

Step 3: Between truffle and volcanoes, welcome to the Puy-de Dôme

For this third step, let's be early and take the road to Clermont-Ferrand from Vichy. A little hour's drive, about 70 kilometers and you're on the ground. There are many things to do in Clermont-Ferrand, but we advise you to focus on the medieval district.

He is the essential witness of the rich historical past of the city and would have seen the philosopher Blaise Pascal . After this visit, if a fringal invites, fill it with a truffade .

This is an auvergnate specialty that combines potatoes and cheese from the region. Ideal, so, to immerse yourself a little more of the atmosphere and local calories. Moreover, the reputation of the restaurant “Le Dôme” is no longer necessary for the recipe, will you resist it?

To finish this stage, Clermont-Ferrand is one of the best places to buy and taste an emblematic pearl cheese from the region: Auvergne AOP Blue. Indeed, it is in the Puy de Dôme and Cantal that it is mainly made, so why deprive yourself of such a local product?

Set on a rye bread or with a rocket salad, enjoy this cheese with a marked but extremely creamy taste. Sometimes salty, sometimes bitter, it reserves many surprises according to the production farm and of course, depending on its shelf life.

After this meal far from being frugal, continue your way to Rochefort-Montagne. On the road, don’t forget to stop to observe the landscape: you are in the heart of the Auvergne Volcano Regional Natural Park . The hilly expanses offer a wonderful view of the emblems that represent and shape both the Auvergnate region, the volcanoes.

Although erupted, they actively forged the landscape and gave the Auvergne its singular character. For those who wish, some of the volcanoes are quickly accessible from the road, including the Col de la Ventouse, next to Verneuge.

Once you arrive in Rochefort-Montagne, take a few moments to stroll through the small town. It is not very large, but it is very old: almost a millennium! Indeed, the first writings to mention it date from 1043. In the meantime, the village has experienced many decays, unfortunately. However, it did not prevent him from being the cradle of the Fourme de Rochefort , an original name cheese (not protected).

To taste this local specialty, go to the Ferme des Combes, present on the ground since 1870. Visits are provided every Friday at 6:00 p.m. But be careful, it is necessary to register beforehand with the Tourist Office of Orcival. Apart from these availability, and only 200 metres from the farm, you can visit the herd of dairy cows, Jersiaises and at the same time see a surprising panorama of the Puys Chain.

The farm sells its productions, which do not sum up to the Fourme de Rochefort. You can also discover the Jersiais , and Puy Ebert . Other unknown auvergnat cheeses that must not be missed!

Once the tastings are done, if the weather allows you, go to the Roche-Tuilière, one of the unmistakable views of the surrounding area. Then let's continue the road to Mont-Dore.

Step 4: Pass from one AOP to another

Mont-Dore, as its name suggests, has nothing to do with Mont d’Or cheese, originally from Haut-Jura. On the other hand, it is a very pleasant commune, located at the foot of the Massif du Sancy. In winter, it is the paradise of skiers, because a very beautiful ski resort opens its doors (more than 30 tracks). Next, nearby, and for nature lovers, is the Sylvatorium of the Capuchin Forest and its Via Ferrata. Here it is to slow down, awaken your senses and find ease in the benefits of trees.

Let us continue our journey to a small town that will open the appetite of some of you: Saint-Nectaire. You guessed it: we enter the age of a famous cheese... Saint-Nectaire AOP ! It has the peculiarity of being the first AOP fermière to European raw milk (1955) and its production area is one of the most limited. Enjoy being on site to visit the city and its attractions, such as the Romanesque Church, the Castle of Murol or the Pétrifiant Fountains.

Chambon Lake, about ten minutes from Saint-Nectaire is also an exquisite place for natural walks and getaways. But if you wish, Lambres Farm offers you the opportunity to discover the secrets of making AOP cheese. From milking to direct sales, you will become an expert in this matter! Fun, visits to the Lambres Farm are daily and easily adapt to the wishes of visitors!

Let’s continue the road to Issoire, a pleasant and colorful town full of authenticity labeled “More Beau Détour de France”. Enjoy a few moments and discover the city, by going, why not, visit the Château de Hauterive or the Tour de l’Horloge.

The Issoirian city centre is also very nice, don’t hesitate to take a tour. Town on the edge of Livradois-Forez Park, you can also penetrate this vast natural space. A true setting protecting many animal or plant species, this park encompasses many communes, including Ambert where we are now heading.

As you doubt, Ambert is an active city, renowned for its gastronomy, and especially the Fourme d’Ambert AOP . Moreover, it hosts a large-scale animation every two years: the Fourmofolies. It is a great fair that brings together all those who love the oven, but also the other Auvergne cheeses. So much to tell you that this is the event not to be missed.

The city also plays a lot on the AOP whose eponymous cheese benefits: there is a Maison de la Fourme, a museum that will tell you more than the secrets of cheese making, its history and you can also taste it. Of course! What would Ambert be like without the Fourme de Ambert tasting?

Let’s finish the escape by heading to Le-Puy-en-Velay, the largest city in Haute-Loire. On the road, if you don't mind making a slight detour, go through the Ravin de Corboeuf. The natural monument of Haute-Loire is an incredible multicolored clay canyon. Shadows, colors and lights make up a striking show in the heart of the Auvergne.

More to the east, the Pic du Lizieux and its breathtaking view of the Auvergnat reliefs. A hike of about 5 kilometers can be made to observe the most beautiful views of the area.

Once you arrive at Puy-en-Velay, take a break and discover this historic capital of the Velay, an ancient province that now spreads over two Auvergnat departments. And there are many wonders to discover! Like Ambert, it is recognized for its gastronomy, including some productions such as green lens or verveine. But also for the lace of Puy, sometimes white, sometimes black.

But the Velay is also a cheese production area where you will find one of the most amazing cheeses: the Velay or cheese with Artisons or Artisou. It has a peculiarity: during its refinement, specific mites are laid on its crust to sculpt it and give it its character... To the amateurs!

Otherwise, for those with a solid palace, do not miss the Gaperon , ancestral cheese with garlic and pepper from Puy-de-Dôme. It comes from the butter, a liquid that is recovered after the manufacture of butter and blends with curled milk. Powerful in the mouth, it will surprise your taste buds with garlic, the major element of the recipe.

Step 5: High-Loire and Cantal, bass Auvergne!

After a night spent in one of the many accommodations in Puy-en-Velay, we invite you to continue in the south. If time and envy allow you to stop at the Cascade de la Beaume. Enjoy a revitalizing walk, between high basaltic rocks, results of very old lava flows. This is the country of volcanoes, after all!

Then, direction Arlempdes and its castle, the first edge of the Loire. Why do we say this castle is the first? Just because the source of the French river is only about thirty kilometers away! So we can actually say that the first castle in the Loire is in Auvergne! This is obviously a place to visit. Especially since Arlempdes is among the most beautiful French villages. Decidedly, the Auvergne has a very interesting architectural heritage!

Now that you have been able to discover Arlempdes, let's continue our way to Costaros, a rather classical, but charming Auvergnat village. On site, it will be an opportunity to reconnect with your passion for cheese and taste it Blue of Costaros . Only produced in the Haute-Loire, it is a most delicious food, which bears the name of the village where it was born! Close to the Artisons cheese because of the mites who actively participate in its refinement, it is however stronger. Its character is indeed much more coriace, although it does not feel very strong.

Let's go back to Chaudes-Aigues and its spas. We recommend to take the path that will pass you near the Viaduct de Gabarit (route D13). Stop 5 minutes (or more!). It is an impressive railway viaduct that entangles the Truyère. It is a beautiful building, a true artistic work. Its red color denotes with the very green decor of the Auvergne and the night, powerful lights illuminate it from the ground. Magic!

Once in Chaudes-Aigues, take the time to relax in its spa. After all, it is only deserved! Its waters have been known since Antiquity and one of its sources (from the Par) are almost 82°C, making it one of the hottest in Europe. Besides, not far from this source, head to Geotherma, the European Museum of Geothermia and Thermalism of Chaudes-Aigues. Discover the secrets of hot springs and the mysteries of the thermal baths!

Also, note that by visiting Chaudes-Aigues, you will enter the Parc naturel régional de l’Aubrac . If you wish, you must not hesitate to venture! It is a beautiful regional park where exceptional transhumances are organized in May. The Aubrac cows descend to pastures, often decorated with flowers. It’s a breathtaking show.

Let's continue the road, after one night in Chaudes-Aigues, for example, to Aurillac. The main city of Cantal is in the heart of the Massif Central and is culturally very attractive. But what interests us, apart from its many churches and the Volcano Museum, is cheese. And in the Cantal, you have to taste the Cantal AOP Of course! This pressed dough cheese dries at least 30 days and depending on the time it is extracted from the cellar, gets a different name that tells long about its robustness.

So it is possible to find young Cantal, Inter-Deux Cantal and Old Cantal. The region's identity product was the cows of Mont Cantal who previously produced milk for the manufacture of this cheese. In this regard, the Ferme de Laissière, in Mandailles-Saint-Julien (25 kilometers from Aurillac) offers tours. You will learn about the whole Cantal manufacturing process.

Finally, to close this long journey fromager in the heart of the Auvergne, we take you to Salers. It is a small town 40 kilometres from Aurillac, loved between the hills and the Auvergne valleys. It is part of the Most Beautiful Villages of France, and for cause it is at the top of the Auvergnat terroir. It combines medieval city, with a magnificent belfry and authentic stone walls, paved alleys and above all, a long history. We brought you to Salers to discover another cheese with the name of protected origin: the Salers AOP .

Visually close to Cantal, this cheese has the particularity of having an important specifications to validate the AOP. It must come from the fermière processing, which gives perfectly unique cheeses from one production to another. And unlike what we imagine, the Salers AOP is not necessarily produced by the milk of the Salers cows. No race is mandatory! On the other hand, the producers who make the choice to use the milk of cow Salers get a cheese with the name protected, the Tradition Salers .

Now, you only have to go home and rest your palace which has been stimulated much during this unique stay. Even though your mirettes have taken a full view of it!