Ecuador: discovering the Galápagos Islands

“At the origin of the species” as Darwin said. Mysterious and lunar, the Galápagos islands intrigue and fascinate. Let yourself embark on this legendary archipelago, at the edge of our world...

After the discovery of the Galápagos Islands, your vision of the world and the time that runs out will vacillera. You will return by seeing and exploring a whole other planet, yet at the gates of our world, and it will mark you with red iron. You will rarely have crossed, perhaps in the books of History, the animals that populate the Galápagos Archipelago. These enigmatic beasts, sometimes scary sometimes waiting for you, who look deeply at you.

Here, no "postcard type" landscapes as you find them in the Bahamas or Polynesia . The tropical paradises have left room for lunar paradises or vegetation parterres where prehistoric animals are calfed.

Surprisingly, you will fall on several well-developed cities, especially on the main islands. But all live in harmony with volcanic lands and fragile ecosystems. In fact, the Galápagos Islands are a true showcase of biodiversity, strictly preserved by Man and beaten with intact secrets. They invite you to a quasi mystical journey... Why not, to start, by our side.

The Galápagos in a few words

When to leave? How to move?

The Galápagos Islands enjoy a climate that, in general, scinds the year in two. From January to May, sunny weather and pleasant temperatures. Some showers point the tip of their nose, without corrupting your activities.

At that time, the sea is welcoming and the winds calm. From June to December, time is completely dry. However, temperatures drop, the cold settles and, with it, violent winds appear. The sea is painful. The greatest interest in this period is the observation of marine mammals and terrestrial birds that are massively agitated in the sea and the sky.

Once your period and flights are selected (usually from France to France) Quito then to the archipelago) you will probably ask yourself the question of the movements between the islands.

On our side, we preferred the boats: the most economical and friendly option. At least, if you have time in front of yourself and not sea evil. Because yes, the waters are agitated. The other option is the plane: faster to visit Santa Cruz (Baltra airport) and San Cristóbal (airport to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno). Of course, this choice is more expensive.

Entrance fees on the Galápagos Islands

Paradise still has a price. Before embarking towards the archipelago, you will have to pay 20 first dollars for the conservation of the islands. Keep proof of this participation. Upon arrival, you will be required to pay $100 of entrance fee. The visit to Isabela Island is, for its part, taxed an additional $10.

In short, a trip to the Galápagos remains expensive. However, it is possible to save a little money by focusing on youth hostels and youth hostels street food throughout the stay. But, if you are like us, you will quickly understand that to make the budget to live such an experience is definitely worth the cost.

Geography and population

The islands of Galápagos form an archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. The islands, 19 in all, range from 1 square kilometre (yes, yes) to 4,588 square kilometres. Not to mention the rosary of islets that encircles them. The archipelago is the fruit of the work of time and erosion. The islets are, in truth, only the tip immersed in dozens of submarine volcanoes.

Throughout the coastline, the lava castings, which are hidden by the elements, form complex and shredded contours. In the highlands, the richness of volcanic soils has given rise to sparse and tropical vegetation: a true chlorophyll paradise. Another part of the Galápagos is characterized by an arid area, found by the cactus which are rooted in the cracks of the lava castings.

Only five islands are inhabited, the most important of which is Isla Santa Cruz with its city, Puerto Ayora, which acts as a tourist capital. It is a must, only because most of the cruise ships mouillent in its port.

Much more than a place of transit, Santa Cruz offers several natural sites that unfortunately pass under the radars of pressed tourists. Another major drop point in the Galápagos: Isla San Cristóbal and its city, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. The other three populous islands, Isabela, Baltra and Santa Maria, are more discreet and their quieter towns.

Faune and flora of the Galápagos

The first explorers called the Galápagos Archipelago: the enchanted islands. A nickname that says a lot about the kaleidoscope of wonders present. Far from the world and the tumult of Man, animals of another time live in peace on this lost archipelago.

The waters around the islands are gorged in plankton, attracting spectacular marine mammals. As you travel to the Galápagos Islands, you will approach the sea lions and sea lions, admire the dolphin wings in the wake of the boats, close the whales that rise from the waves or the superb predators that are the orques.

Deeper, a secret marine fauna is silent. The bigarrated tropical fish are the idols of the divers, at the elbow with the marteaux sharks and Manta rays. On the farmland you will have the chance to admire among the most beautiful birds in the world. From the nozzles to the marsh owl, to the pink flamingo, the mockery or the Darwin pinson, hundreds of species will always have eyes on you...

When you approach the coast, the birds of the sea will take possession of the sky. From the vagabonds of the seas to the manchots agile, this time, through the blue-footed madman and the red frigate, no need to be ornithologist to fall under the charm.

Finally, it is impossible to talk about the fauna and flora of the Galápagos without touching reptiles... These prehistoric beasts with sometimes threatening looks are absolutely fascinating and are surprisingly approaching. If the most known reptile is the giant turtle, other terrestrial and marine iguanas, such as the flamboyant lava lizards, will not fail to catch your eye.

Our adventure in the Galápagos Islands

Place the story of our 15 cut days of the world. Two weeks is long. You can quite listen to your stay by selecting only two to three islands. A week to ten days already offers an extraordinary immersion.

Like most travellers, we land on the small rock of Isla Baltra. From the airport we borrow the line that connects Isla Santa Cruz free of charge. We put our luggage in Puerto Ayora for three days, to take the pulse of the Galápagos.

The few tourists who accompany us seem surprised to find more than plants and animals. Indeed, Puerto Ayora is indeed a developed and prosperous city, licked by the beaches where the seas and pelicans languish. Rutilating bays and peaceful lagoons offer us a great first experience of snorkeling in Las Grietas: these crevasses filled with water that breaks the rocks.

From the second day, we are going to take a sunbath with the sea iguanas of Bahia Tortuga. Without too late, we went to the reserve of giant El Chato turtles. Guaranteed swelling! Then, on the third day, we let ourselves be seduced by the Lilliputian islands around Santa Cruz. All are suitable for atypical meetings: endemic reptiles, sea lions, cactus forests, rare marine birds.

After this short and beautiful introduction to the Galápagos Islands, we arrive at San Cristóbal thanks to the fast boat that connects the two islands. We are staying in its main city, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno: an ideal drop point to radiate in the island.

As soon as the next day, a taxi picks us up to drive us along the lagoons, rare freshwater lakes and beaches inhabited by the incredible blue-footed madman. The rocky island of San Cristóbal also houses giant turtles and lava lizards, flying in a volcanic tuft setting.

However, even happier than nature lovers: water sports enthusiasts. Surf, snorkeling, kayaking, diving: Isla Cristóbal is an idyllic playground for all these practices.

On the one hand, the underwater life is reminiscent of divers (honeys, sea turtles and sharks) and, on the other, the northern swell and excellent reef breaks Call surfers. On land and at sea, our physical efforts are always rewarded.

Every evening we take our neighborhoods in one of the restaurants of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, which, despite its development, has managed to keep its fishing village paces and its deliciously relaxed atmosphere.

Soon a week in the Galápagos islands, but our thirst for discovery is nowhere. We fly to Isla Isabela. This island is the largest island in the archipelago. However, it does not go there for its surface or the cyclopean dimensions of its volcanoes, but rather for its colonies of manchots living at the foot of the cliffs.

Our first on-site activity is all found: a kayak outing among these manchots, followed by a cocktail on a beach. Then, we return quickly with our love for walking and we begin to attack the volcanoes.

The island trails are suitable for all levels. But two hikes are particularly worth the detour. First of all, the Volcan Alcedo, which, visible behind the nonchalizing Smoking, houses giant turtles in full freedom. Then, the hike Sierra Negra volcano in a landscape of science fiction and dancing Smoking.

Our ground floor on Isla Isabela is located in the village Puerto Villamil. Lost at the end of the world, this somnolent town bathes in authenticity.

Less than an hour by boat, you can discover incredible snorkeling spots where the lava flows between mangroves and the sea and where prehistoric animals cross the centuries. If you’re lucky, you can even meet a hippocampe in the process of cabling between the lava formations of Los Tuneles, old lava formations sheltering a breathtaking fauna.

Before leaving this heart-shaped island, we went to admire Las Tintoreras: a small island in front, known for its waters where the white-pointed sharks sleep.

We still have a nice week to discover the Galápagos Islands. It's hard to make a choice for the rest of our program. However, we decide to stop at Isla Bartolomé. Another promise of snorkeling sessions in a fabulous setting, in the middle of the sea turtle tides and under the attentive eye of the player casks.

Do you know that these funny birds are not so shy as that? It is possible to approach them closely on many beaches. Of course, in respect of distances so as not to disturb Mother Nature’s fragile balance. Another great way to visit Isla Bartolomé is to climb to the top of the island. The panoramic view is simply the most beautiful of the archipelago...

Before the last stop of our stay at the edges of the world: a day on Isla Española to admire the birds parades in Punta Suarez.

We get under a cloud of masked mad and blue-footed fools. The cliffs are beaten and rode by the waves, blown by the wind and the water that springs from the winds. The scene is dramatic and striking. This islet, the southernmost of the Galápagos, is home to the unique albatros colony of the archipelago. Majestic birds whose ball is admired from March to December.

Other seabirds come quickly to meet us, the red beaked phaetons, the Elspañola mockers, the Darwin pinsons and many other endemic species with beaks and subjugating colors. The inhabitants tell us, enchanted, that the cactus and giant turtles took possession of this piece of territory threatened a few years ago by the introduction of domestic goats.

After all these adventures, riding between hiking trails and end sea background, a little bit of Farniente is necessary. For this, nothing like a peaceful and sunny beach on Isla Floreana.

The horizon, steeped in pink flamingos, and the overwhelming history of the first inhabitants make the island’s reputation. If many day trips are possible from the main island of Santa Cruz, we preferred to spend several days there, nestled in a small house of the adorable village Puerto Velasco.

Here, the narrow streets on the ground and the absence of a car offer a trip to the Galápagos Islands of the 1970s. The village houses a small atypical site: several rehabilitated wooden barrels in graffiti-covered mailboxes, in which visitors are invited to post their postcards. Are they coming to destination? We let you see this by yourself...

The small port of Puerto Velasco adjoins a black sandy beach, a volcanic landscape ideal for laying its towel and resting its muscles. However, it is very difficult for us to resist the call of marine landscapes... We last filter our combinations and plunge into the discovery of a coral reef, a natural habitat of a thousand multicolored tropical fish, loved in a half circle of sharp rocks. Above our heads, herons, red beak phaetons and dark seagulls emerge from the ocean to the cliffs. What to end this non-standard stay in beauty.

Understanding the Galápagos Archipelago

The Galápagos were "discovered" in 1535 by a browser that fell, by chance, on this territory by wanting to win the Peru .

After the first more advanced explorations, the islands of Galápagos became the den of the boucaniers, seal fishermen and whalers. Fortunately, from the 19th century, the island and its species passed under protection, including Unesco.

In collective memories, the Galápagos Islands are intimately linked to Charles Darwin . Despite the beliefs, theories and reflections in his book, the Origin of Species , were only little inspired by his short trip to the islands. He spent only five weeks there in 1835, studying specimens and supporting his revolutionary approach. The islands of Galápagos open to the world and tourism more than a hundred years after their visit.

In 1960, the first visitors crowded the dismantled ground and still lacked modern infrastructure. Tourism development coincided with the beginning of environmental concerns. The concern about the fragility of the Galápagos ecosystem leads the Ecuadorian government has multiplied the protection titles: a national park classified as a world heritage, a marine reserve and on-site teams dedicated to education and scientific research while promoting sustainable development.

Other sources of threats are the introduction of invasive species, such as domestic animals and insects, and intensive fishing. The latter was a real scourge until the end of the 19th century when a law framed fishermen’s practice. Today, only reasoned and tourist fishing, on board small boats, is permitted.

However, more than 50% of animal and plant species remain in the process of disappearance and efforts to reintroduction, reforestation and waste management are not sufficient to ensure the health and beauty of the islands on a sustainable basis.

Rules remain within the national park. The sites visited during the cruises are limited, the number of visitors restricted, the naturalistic guides rigorously trained, the natural spaces closed at night and the construction of new forbidden buildings.

So, last tips, plan your stay with a little bit in advance and adopt a responsible behave all along.