Cape Kidnappers Crazy Colony in New Zealand

If you leave on the North Island in New Zealand soon, make a detour by Cape Kidnappers and meet the world’s largest insane colony in Bashan!

Located about 20 kilometers south-east of Napier’s city on the North Island, Cape Kidnappers is a famous promontory for its impressive Crazy Colony of Bassan, more exactly the largest "continental" colony in the world of Australasia madness ( Morus serrator or Australasian Gannet ) with nearly 20,000 individuals. The name "Bagan Crazy" is widely used to designate these large seabirds of the Sulid family, which includes 10 species worldwide.

After spending the winter off Australia, from May to September, the Bashan fools come back here to nest in the early spring, gather their eggs, raise their offspring and offer a fantastic show from late October to late April.

Adult Australasia has a span of two meters and an average weight of two kilos. Disgracious on the ground, the deployment of its wings shattered during the flight and its fulgurating descents plunged to plunge and catch fish in the ocean are exceptional

Where does the name Cape Kidnappers come from?

Cape Kidnappers is a sandstone promontory with white steep cliffs located east of Hastings in Hawke Bay. The course was thus named by Captain Cook after a Maori attempt to remove Tiata, a tahit member of his crew from HMS Endeavour October 15, 1769.

How to access Cape Kidnappers?

You can observe this impressive colony, either on an organized excursion transported on a platform towed by a tractor, or by walking or kayaking by the beach only, along the cliffs about 9 kilometers. The beauty of the site offers magnificent views and landscapes. Access by the tray is impossible because the road passes through private properties.

The best observation period extends from late November to February. The course is closed to visitors between July and October during the nesting period. Attention: it is imperative to find out before on the tides schedules. Indeed, access to the nesting site is only accessible at low tide.

The start of the walk is at the end of the road Clifton (Hawke’s Bay) , where you can park for free if you come by car or motorhome.

Provide comfortable shoes suitable for walking in the sand and sometimes in the water (avoid sandals), hot jacket or windscreen, waterproof garment (if applicable), hat, sunglasses, camera, and possibly bathing suit, towel and, depending on schedule, picnic.

On foot: You must start your walk "go" at the earliest 3 hours after the high tide and your walk "return" at the latest 1h30 after the low tide. Despite this, you will certainly have to wet your legs a bit to pass some places. When you arrive at Cape Kidnappers, you can enjoy Bassan's crazy show for about 2 hours, but still check your journey time.

In kayaking: by the sea, when it is calm and the weather is clemency.

On a towed trailer: Since 1952, Gannet Beach Adventure offers guided tours on the coast of Hawke’s Bay, from Clifton to Cape Kidnappers, in a fun way on a trailer pulled by a tractor, with experienced local guides/drivers.

The wonders of Cape Kidnappers

During this tour, you will discover the natural and geological wonders of the place, including fracture lines testifying to ancient earthquakes fossils and guts formed by wind and water. When you arrive at Cape Kidnappers, you will have about 1h30 to climb the cliff and observe the Bashan fools by approaching them less than a meter!

This is the option that I prefer, given the weather hazards and especially the tides schedules, and also because we have the chance to have someone who knows the place perfectly and makes us share its culture.

Sometimes this excursion can be full of unforeseen. Indeed, in spite of the southern summer, the weather can be capricious, with a disconnection of the elements, transforming the journey into a true epic adventure, with adrenaline climb, but without danger.

My personal experience at Cape Kidnappers

When I visited this place, the ocean was very agitated, as a result of cyclone Gita which struck the archipelago in the form of heavy rain and storm in February 2018.

But it is not enough to discourage Colin, our driver and guide, who knows by heart these cliffs and rocks that climb the beach, and travels through this route all the time. An experience that I will never forget: we leave around 4:30 in a fine but penetrating rain, despite our equipment, wind and a grey sky altering visibility. The tractor slaloms on a beach-show invaded by the waves in places. Sometimes, Colin hesitates to find the most suitable passage to avoid the slackening of the trailer, especially by circumventing the immersed rocks that generate currents. On the trailer, 20 people, aligned by 10 on each side. On the way, I am sitting in front of the ocean and my legs are thoroughly watered by the waves that come to hit the trailer, while those who face the gigantic cliff signal a few drops of stones that devalue the wall. Colin stops several times to show us the faults and breaks of the cliff by telling us the origin of their formation, and it reassures us with jokes to relax the atmosphere.

Arriving at Cape Kidnappers, you climb the cliff by a trail and discover these thousands of birds gathered in the mist on the plateau, not fierce at all. We only hear the wind and their characteristic cry. They're here, peaceful, imperturbable. Young people with dark plumage have almost adult size. There is a balt of takeoffs and landings, but also a touching behavior when couples find themselves and rub each other the beak and neck or leave their wings. These moments remain memorable, despite the absence of sun.

We join Clifton at nightfall, at about 9 o’clock, soaked to the bones, but happy to have made this journey. We look more like wrecks than just tourists.

That day, we were the only group to make this trip... Who were the crazy ones?

Enjoy to visit Napier

Delightfully touched by the earthquake of 1931, murderer and devastating, this city was rebuilt in the fashion of the time, Art Deco, an amazing architecture that makes it the first city in the world by the number of Art Deco buildings listed, and attracts tourists. Art Deco Museum, and shops for the enthusiasts and nostalgic of this time, charming coastal town.

And also about fifty colorful wall paintings (Street Art) scattered in Napier, inciting to reflection and celebrating the well-being of the ecosystems of our oceans. These works were carried out as part of street art festivals organized in 2016 and 2017.

Main photo credit: Flickr – Pierre Roudier